Guide to Jewelry Metals and How to Identify Them

When buying or maintaining jewelry, it’s important to know what type of metal it is made from. Here’s a breakdown of common jewelry metals and how to identify them.

Gold jewelry comes in different purities, measured in karats (K). The higher the karat, the purer the gold content.

  • 10K Gold (41.7% pure) – Durable and more affordable. Often stamped as “10K” or “417.”

  • 14K Gold (58.5% pure) – A common choice for fine jewelry, balancing durability and gold content. Stamped “14K” or “585.”

  • 18K Gold (75% pure) – Has a richer gold tone and is used in high-end jewelry. Softer than 14K but still durable. Marked “18K” or “750.”

  • 21K Gold (87.5% pure) – More common in Middle Eastern and Asian jewelry, with a deeper yellow hue. Stamped “21K” or “875.”

  • 22K Gold (91.7% pure) – Very rich in gold content, softer, and mostly used in traditional jewelry. Stamped “22K” or “917.”

  • 24K Gold (99.9% pure) – The purest form of gold, extremely soft and rarely used in everyday jewelry. Marked “24K” or “999.”

How to Identify Gold

  • Look for hallmarks – Jewelry is usually stamped with karat marks like 10K, 14K, 18K, etc.
  • Magnet Test – Real gold is not magnetic, so if it sticks to a magnet, it is likely not pure gold.
  • Color and Wear Test – Lower karat gold may fade over time, exposing underlying metals.
  • Acid Testing – Nitric acid reacts differently with gold, silver, and base metals, revealing their purity.
  • Scratch Testing – Jewelry can be rubbed against a testing stone to check for authenticity.
  • Electronic Gold & Silver Testers – These devices measure metal composition without damaging the piece.
  • X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF) Testing – A professional and precise method for determining metal content.

Silver

Silver is a classic choice for jewelry due to its bright, shiny appearance. It is softer than gold and can tarnish over time when exposed to air and moisture.

  • Sterling Silver (92.5% pure) – The most common form in jewelry, mixed with other metals like copper for durability. Marked “925” or “Sterling.”
  • Fine Silver (99.9% pure) – Almost pure silver, softer, and more prone to scratches. Stamped “999.”
  • Silver-Plated – A base metal coated with a thin layer of silver. This type of jewelry is less valuable and does not have a purity stamp.

How to Identify Silver:

  • Check for hallmarks – Look for stamps like 925, 999, or Sterling.
  • Tarnish Test – Real silver tarnishes over time, while stainless steel does not.
  • Magnet Test – Silver is not magnetic, so if it sticks to a magnet, it may be plated or another metal.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is widely used in fashion and fine jewelry due to its strength, affordability, and resistance to rust and tarnish.

  • Durable and scratch-resistant – Ideal for everyday wear.
  • Non-tarnishing – Unlike silver, stainless steel does not oxidize or change color.
  • Hypoallergenic – A great choice for people with sensitive skin.
  • Available in different colors – Stainless steel can also come in a gold color through plating or ion coating. Stainless steel is widely used in fashion and fine jewelry due to its strength, affordability, and resistance to rust and tarnish.
  • Durable and scratch-resistant – Ideal for everyday wear.
  • Non-tarnishing – Unlike silver, stainless steel does not oxidize or change color.
  • Hypoallergenic – A great choice for people with sensitive skin.

How to Identify Stainless Steel:

  • No hallmarks – Stainless steel jewelry usually doesn’t have purity stamps.
  • Magnet Test – Some stainless steel types are magnetic, unlike silver or gold.
  • Weight and Shine – Stainless steel is heavier than aluminum and has a slightly darker shine compared to silver.

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Tungsten

Tungsten is one of the hardest and most scratch-resistant metals used in jewelry.

  • Extremely hard and durable – Resistant to scratches and wear.
  • Heavyweight – Tungsten is much heavier than titanium and stainless steel.
  • Naturally gray or black – Often found in darker tones but can be plated in various colors.

How to Identify Tungsten:

  • Heavier than most metals – Feels much denser compared to titanium or stainless steel.
  • Scratch Resistance – Harder than other metals; it won’t scratch easily.
  • Non-Magnetic – Like titanium, tungsten is not magnetic.